Busy in Berlin

I have just spent a luxurious eight days in Berlin, in a bright and modern little apartment on Grosse Hamburgerstrasse. Not long ago, I wrote of my first trip to this remarkable town. It was 1988, the year before the wall came down, and I was thunderstruck by both the raw creative power of West Berlin, and the stark quotidian realities of the East. For this […]

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Ruined chapel, Carrigafoyle

On The Trail of the Enrights

My family name, Enright, is Irish.  And this week I have been exploring the spectacular countryside of the Emerald Isle, in search of deceased ancestors and spectacular photo opportunities, not necessarily in that order. (We also spent several days in the wonderful city of Dublin, which I will attempt to chronicle in a future story.) The Enrights are ethnically Gaelic in origin. That might seem obvious, […]

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Shetland: How do you get a pony on a cruise ship?

It must be hard to be a citizen of Shetland. I’m not talking about the isolation, the harsh North Atlantic storms, the long dark winter. It must be infuriating to have your whole cultural identity associated with adorable ponies and wee sheep dogs, particularly when you have a long, proud and very interesting history to present to the world. We arrived in Shetland by cruise ship tender. Tendering […]

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town crier, london

Losing My Travel Mojo In London

In retrospect, I was setting myself up for a bit of a letdown. I first visited London when I was fresh out of school. At that time, I was only planning to spend a few days there, and then hop on a bus to take a drunken camping tour to Morocco. As it happened, the trip was postponed and I ended up spending two weeks […]

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Welcome to Tórshavn and The Faroe Islands

Tórshavn and the Could-I-Live-Here Index Every so often I find myself in a place I never dreamt I’d visit. These unpremeditated travels are among the most interesting in my life: it’s one thing to travel to a storied place like Berlin with high expectations; it’s quite another to wash up on the shores of the Faroe Islands (figuratively speaking) with no prejudices whatsoever. Well, few […]

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girl eating

Paris and the Ethics of Street Photography

Sometimes people ask me what kind of photographer I am. “The talented kind ” I want to reply, but somehow I don’t think that’s what they are asking. I have been a wildlife photographer, a scenic photographer, a travel photographer, a portrait photographer and, for a short time, a wedding photographer. (I actually love wedding photography; it’s the weddings themselves that wear you down.) Nothing […]

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miroir d'eau

Bastille Day in Bordeaux

It’s not a holiday until somebody storms the local square. July 14 is Bastille Day in France. It’s a national holiday—the national holiday, in fact, commemorating the storming of the Bastille and the start of the French Revolution. We are visiting the Bordeaux region, staying in a fantastic stone cottage in the small village of St-Gervais (thank you Air BnB.) We wanted to see how […]

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Sculpture, Oslo

Oslo, Sunday Morning

What to do on a quiet Sunday morning in Oslo? Revel in stunning public art, for starters. I’d been looking forward to seeing Oslo for some time. My travels in Norway had been exclusively by cruise ship, and the capital figures on very few itineraries. Norway is all about the gorgeous fjords for most travellers; if you want beautiful cities, you take a Baltic cruise […]

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Stavanger Morning

This bustling oil town has managed to keep its unique Norwegian charm, thanks to one architect’s vision. In my recent travels to Nova Scotia, I pulled into the beautiful small town of Yarmouth to find that a big old brick church had just been reduced to a pile of rubble. The dust was still settling, literally, and some of the townspeople were enraged. They’d laboured […]

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Goats and Glaciers: Gorgeous Geiranger Fjord

This world heritage site in western Norway just may be the most beautiful fjord in the world. The first time I cruised around Norway as a ship’s naturalist, I was asked to get on the ship’s PA system and give a narration about the fjords. Great! So up to the bridge I went, only to discover that there, um, weren’t any fjords out there. It […]

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